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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate familiar high-end names. However, nestled near the top among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a distant area of northern London.

A Surprise Recognition

This compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. The honour has left the proprietors completely astonished.

“I’m utterly astonished,” states a proprietor, referring to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their humble shop securing such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its original charm. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant more than excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent consistency.

It is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can cost many times that figure.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo beyond its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this culinary triumph.